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11/11/2013 Stage 62 Pargua- Quemchi (Chiloe)
We left Pargua
on the ferry which runs continuously between the mainland and the
Island of Chiloe. Spanish settlers were isolated here in the 16th
century with only one ship coming in a year. Quite a nice way to
start the day on the ferry! I don't quite know what possessed us to
decide to take the ripio route along the coast instead of the asphalt
main road. It was quite incredible that a road with barely any height
gain was so difficult to cycle. I repeatedly had to walk because the
gradient was so steep and I kept skidding. We did come across some of
the famous wood clad churches though for which Chiloe has been listed
as a world heritage site. Overall the riding wasn't too bad to be
fair and we rode into Quemchi with the idea of buying some provisions
and moving on. However when we first arrived an elderly gentleman
rushed out of his house and suggested we should eat at the fabulous
restaurant on the sea front. We cycled about for a bit but with it
being siesta time nothing much was happening. It was a charming
seaside little town though and we did end up in the suggested
restaurant where we found of course the same guy who was in fact the
proud owner of the restaurant. We did have an excellent meal of
locally caught fish and we are sure we saw dolphins in the water. All
thoughts of continuing on rapidly disappeared. It was just too nice a
place to pass by. Everything just felt right about it so we booked
into a cheap hostal with superb sea views and enjoyed ourselves. We
knew there would probably be a price to pay tomorrow as Chiloe is
very short on dry days and we were passing up a perfectly sunny
afternoon. So be it. We will deal with it tomorrow.
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